We’ve been patiently waiting for the perfect convergence of brunch service and nice springtime weather to try out Park on Henderson Avenue. We have friends who love the restaurant, and probably just as many who hate the place. So when we went on the search of an eatery deserving our Brunch of the Month designation, we kept our expectations low. Very low—just in case.
The space at Park is fantastically designed. We love the patio, and the room closest to the patio because both are the closest things to eating inside our crazy aunt’s screened-in porch on her farm back in the day. It’s like a lovely indoor picnic, though we aren’t sure if all the plants are supposed to be dead or if that’s just part of the charm.
As soon as we opened the brunch menu, we knew it had immense promise. We love when a chef takes the time to put a unique twist on the tried-and-true rather than schlep out formulaic egg dish reruns. But the unique interpretations must be well executed, or the conceit of confidence becomes a sad, sad joke.
Thankfully, everything we ordered was spot-on in flavor, presentation and culinary whimsy.
Our favorite, hands-down, was the Park Eggs Benebiscuit. A large cream biscuit is split and topped with poached eggs, or be crazy like us and order them scrambled. The server may cock her head like a clueless puppy when you go off-script like that, but the scrambled-egg texture works better for us with the dense biscuit. It’s all topped off with a hearty piece of ham and an amazing jalapeño hollandaise sauce. Next time, we’ll ask to add that velvety sauce to just about anything we order. It’s that good.
The Breakfast Flatbread is large enough to share. It’s topped with potatoes, bacon, chipotle tomatoes and “Huevos Rancheros,” which translates to scrambled eggs, black beans and chiles. (We hate beans and they weren’t listed on the menu, so that’s annoying, but we know better for next time.) The crust was light and chewy with just enough crunch. We’d get this one again, too, but sans frijoles.
Green Eggs and Ham, though not original, are still as fun to eat as they are to order. The parsley-speckled eggs are green enough without becoming unappetizing and the grilled, cured pork loin was tender and juicy.
On the “unch” side of the menu, a favorite at our table was the Fried Egg BLT, though once again, the menu fails to mention that it’s served open-faced, making it nearly impossible to eat, even with a fork and knife. But the flavors were fantastic. And the fries, even better (dipped in the leftover falapeño hollandaise from our Benebiscuit, and it was a side of OMG with the BLT). Just order the sandwich with an extra piece of toast and this is another keeper.
And what would a good brunch be without cocktails? Our favorite, a traditional Bloody Mary made extra-special with house-infused Serrrano Pepper Vodka. Just enough spice to wake you up, but not so much that you need a gallon of water to finish it.
Service can be slow, but we’re never in a hurry on Sundays, so it doesn’t really bother us. We just think it’s a fair warning if you’ve got a tight agenda for some reason. Otherwise, as long as the food is hot, flavorful and filling, we’re happy brunchers. And if the weather continues this wonderful trend of sunshine and mild temperatures, we’re going to be on the patio at Park again and again.
1921 Henderson Avenue, Dallas
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