Never be afraid of change.
Especially when it makes everything better.
When Laurel Tavern opened its first non-California outpost a few months ago on Lowest Greenville, it featured bizarre, inefficient order-at-the-bar service for food, which was then delivered by staff, who waited on you later in the meal like a normal restaurant. To say it was confusing to customers was an understatement. But the owners paid attention and quickly modified the business model for the Dallas location.
And we couldn’t be happier to have given them a second chance.
They invited us in for brunch last weekend and we now have a new rotator on our regular list of weekend spots. The brunch menu is concise and that’s a bonus because the handful of items each shine on their own merits. In fact, our only beef is with the pork. Floppy bacon makes us weep (well, floppy lots of things make us weep). The bacon that garnished our Bloody Mary came out perfect, but the four thick slices that accompanied a basic egg-toast-and-potatoes breakfast might as well have been linguine. That’s an easy fix, though, as long as you ask for your bacon crispy when you order it.
But onto the aforementioned Bloody Mary.
We’ve had our fair share of crazy, piled-to-the-sky Bloody Marys and each one either succeeds wonderfully or fails miserably beyond its Instagraminess. Happy to say, the tasty fried chicken sliders that adorn the spicy brunch cocktail tasted fantastic, arriving piping hot from the kitchen. Several other brunch cocktails populate the menu, many featuring buzzy cold brew for a nice pick-me-up with your booze.
Currently, brunch consists of but four dishes and to us, that’s plenty. Opt for the basic two brown egg breakfast with hashbrowns and toast (the homemade jam totally rocks) or the neatly stacked huevos rancheros and you’ll be one happy camper.
For us, however, the two superstar dishes are the chorizo breakfast tacos (pictured at top) and the lemon ricotta French toast (above). Balanced, expertly prepared and beautiful to look at, each of these wins the brunch game solidly.
We can’t wait to return.
Brunch Saturdays and Sundays
Noon to 3:00 p.m.
1920 Greenville Avenue, Dallas
Photos by Steven Lindsey